Wagyu explained by meat sommelier Dirk Freyberger
As a meat sommelier, you're an ambassador of goodness. The primary goal is to educate consumers on the value of good, tasty, and ethically produced meat. "Better less meat, but good quality meat" should be our approach. When it comes to Wagyu , people aren't always so sure. Many legends and half-truths surround this exceptionally rare and, above all, exclusive meat. So, what is Wagyu, anyway?
What is Wagyu
Wagyu translates as Japanese (Wa) beef (Gyu). Outside of Japan, Wagyu is the name given to meat from Japanese black cattle. In Japan, there are four types of Wagyu: Japanese Black, Japanese Brown, Japanese Polled, and Japanese Shorthorn. Japanese Black is the dominant variety, accounting for around 90% of beef. Until 2014, this Japanese delicacy could only be bought and eaten in Japan. This is probably one of the reasons why Wagyu remains very exclusive and rare even today.
Perfection of breeding and husbandry
What actually distinguishes Wagyu cattle from other breeds such as Angus , Hereford or Simmental ? Quite simply the special genetics combined with the exceptional rearing and husbandry of the animals. Anyone who expects farmers to massage their animals with rice wine and pour beer into their feed is mistaken. Due to the limited space on the island, most cattle on the island are not able to graze freely in the pasture. Even Wagyu cattle spend most of their time in the stable. One special feature of the rearing of the most expensive cattle in the world is the special concentrated feed based on grain, beets, potatoes and pomace. The composition is guarded by each breeding farm, kept strictly secret and passed on from generation to generation. This recipe, combined with precisely documented feed quantities, forms the basis of the success of each breeding farm.
Although the animals are kept in stables, the care provided by the farmers is exceptional. A farmer owns approximately six to ten cattle at a time, and they are cared for all day long. Grooming and, for example, exercise or walking on a leash play a significant role in the animals' well-being. The more comfortable the animals feel, the better the meat quality will be later on.
How do I recognize the quality of Wagyu
With Wagyu, the marbling of the meat is particularly important. It's not just important that there's plenty of fat, but also that it's evenly and finely distributed. The fat should also be present intramuscularly rather than subcutaneously. The degree of marbling is measured in BMS (Beef Marbling Standard) or MS and categorized from 1-12. Good Wagyu starts at a BMS of 8, and a BMS of 12 is very rare. Wagyu beef is further categorized from A1 to A5. This value evaluates the fat color and meatiness of the carcass. Good Wagyu with a BMS of 8 or higher must be an A4, but is usually an A5.
Ultimately, quality also depends on the taste and melting point of the fat. Of course, you can't tell this when you buy it. Unlike visual characteristics like the degree of marbling, though. However, the brand is a good indicator. Only certified and often award-winning companies are allowed to produce "brand" meat. In these competitions, not only the consistency and marbling are evaluated, but also the taste. That's why our Champion Brand Wagyu, for example, is an excellent choice! It doesn't matter whether you choose striploin, tenderloin , or other cuts and refined products . Each one is a delight.
Why is Japanese black cattle so expensive
Although the export of Japanese Wagyu beef is now permitted, the export of live animals, eggs, or semen from the animals is strictly prohibited. From the mid-1970s to the 1990s, approximately 220 animals from Japanese breeds were exported as eggs, semen, or live animals for scientific purposes, primarily to the United States. All animals outside Japan today are descended from these animals.
What is Wagyu Cross or Wagyu F1
It has already been mentioned that very little genetic material has left Japan, but since the demand for the quality and special characteristics of Wagyu beef has grown so popular and its reputation is excellent, companies specializing in Wagyu meat production have decided to also practice crossbreeding. This means that, for example, an Angus cow is inseminated with Wagyu semen. The resulting calf is a hybrid of 50% Angus and 50% Wagyu. The advantage of this breeding method is that, although there is very little genetic material, a much larger number of offspring can suddenly be produced. The disadvantage, of course, is that foreign genetic material can also dilute the Wagyu genetics. But with the right combination of breeds, a very good degree of marbling can be achieved, and optimally balanced feeding also highlights the genetics and outstanding flavor of Wagyu. A Wagyu cross or F1 is a more affordable way to enjoy Wagyu.
What does Japanese black beef taste like
Wagyu beef is characterized by exceptional juiciness, tenderness, and an intense umami flavor. The pronounced marbling in the meat ensures a rich, full-bodied flavor. The fat from these animals has up to 50% higher unsaturated fatty acids (compared to other cattle breeds). This gives it a very low melting point, which is why eating Wagyu beef has a very special mouthfeel. The fat melts even at body temperature, creating a mouthfeel similar to chocolate. This tender piece of meat melts in the mouth, spreading its intense flavor like a balm throughout the mouth, and it is precisely this all-encompassing umami kick that is so special about Wagyu beef.
How to prepare it properly
Due to its high fat content and low melting point, Wagyu is a major challenge to prepare properly. In Japanese cuisine, it is usually sliced wafer-thin and then eaten either raw or briefly grilled or briefly dipped in broth, for example, in shabu-shabu, a type of broth fondue.
Here in Europe, specifically Germany, we primarily enjoy meat as a steak. The meat sommelier's recommendation: Caramelize the relatively thinly sliced steaks over very high heat, for example, in a heavy pan or an OFB (e.g., a Gustos ), without overcooking the interior of the steak. This way, you can fully savor the special umami flavor combined with the tenderly melting fat.
If you're really hungry now, check out this playlist on FreybergerTV, then you'll have to order!